YORKING Brake Pipe Repair Kit 3/16" Pipe Flaring Tool Kit 25FT Car Brake Line 10mm Replacement Cutter Bender Brake Line Repair Kit for Car Original Braking System

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I'm not too worried about the lifespan of the tool, I only need it once but I need the flares to be perfect - I'll need them a lot longer! You may as well do all those extra servicing jobs at the same time, as this will stop you having to pull the system apart at a later date and bleed it again. Also make sure you have a male and female brake pipe end cap handy to seal the brake hose and pipe once it is removed. Its been parked up on his drive since the line split, I don't think the brakes work for a second time after you rupture the line anyway. Bleeding is a simple procedure that involves forcing brake fluid through the system from front to back while you open and close every bleed nipple (remove their rubber dust covers first!

Finally, you need to remove and seal the rear fixing of the brake pipe, the penetrating oil should now have done it's work and if you are lucky it will not be welded together anymore. Don't bend it yet, keep it straight, but be careful to follow the path of the original brake line (don't get it the wrong side of any water pipes etc. It will also cost a similar small fortune to get the car to a garage now that all the fluid has leaked away. However, the golden rule is never to question the "MOT man" (especially as I know him so well) - so there was nothing for it but to rip out the brake lines and replace everything.Can I recognise a good flare - I can probably spot if its not turned out right and a badly made flare will leak where as a good one won't. Working on brakes is potentially dangerous both during and after the repair - always use the triple check rule: (1) check the work you've done in situ (2) road test and then check the work you've done (3) finally re-check the work you've done after driving 50 miles. firstly I told him on the day to go and get some more fluid and top it up before it empties the ABS module - he didn't.

I can do anything mechanical if I put my mind to it and I don't think repairing a brake pipe would be out of my league, its just a matter of having the right tools to do it with and you make it sound like a specialist only job, if I listened to people who said "specialist only" I would never attempt anything. Brake fluid must be kept topped up and should be fully replaced every couple of years as it becomes corrosive over time.Sure, go for kunifer if you want or have to, but unless you are using it on a track day car you won't notice the difference. I also discovered a kinked/corroded hard line to the rear driver's side following replacement of the rear flexi hoses.

Thats what I thought you would get with the kit I linked to but it looked different, but looking closer at the picture the female coupler might be a back to back one but its only 7mm long, the pictures aren't very clear. It takes a little practice to set the tool so you get a good flare - the main thing is to set the "stick out" length of the pipe right before forming the flare, it's not difficult but I'd recommend doing a few practise joints on scrap before you go near the car. If you're replacing the brake hose as well then spray the brake hose ferrule at the caliper, but be careful to prevent any oil getting on your brake pads. If it is just a one off job I would cut the pipes to length, put the unions on with a masking tape label stating which type of flare you need and take the whole lot to a garage and get the flares done. Using a flare spanner (do not use a standard spanner or you may round off the nut), unscrew the brake pipe you will be removing from the junction box.As well as customising your brakes to your own specification, there are essential repairs and replacements that need to be made every so often for safety reasons. You can leave it on your hands for quite some time during a repair, but it will eventually make them red and itchy. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Jack up the car under the rear subframe in the middle and put jack stands under the rear trailing arms near the pivot point for access.

That said, bleeding brakes is simpler and quicker if all four wheels are off the ground and accessible, so for the reasons given in the recommendations section of this guide, if possible I'd always get the car completely off the ground anyway. I've just replaced all the brake pipes on my 90 including some flares made on the vehicle without a single failure. There are 2 of these tools available, the other does SAE flares which is a different type to what the TT requires which is a DIN bubble flare. However, you will need to get all four wheels off the ground and accessible if you need to replace a rear brake pipe. There are lever operated clones of the bench style, I've not tried them but I don't see why they wouldn't work well.I have classic cars that have been running on unsupported (by modern standards) "pure" copper brake pipes for more than 30 years and I have never had even one pipe crack (and yes, I used to race one of them). A lot depends on if you are doing steel, stainless or kunifer - and if you ned to do it on the vehicle or not. I've watched a youtube video where some redneck reckons they are fine after trying to pull one apart with his truck. Note the position of the types of boy fixings and, if you are replacing a rear brake, note the position of the fixings shown in the photo. So if you're in the same situation as me with a failed MOT, before you go ahead and replace the brake pipes try cleaning them up in situ - check them carefully, but they could be fine.