Games Workshop Citadel Base: Zandri Dust

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The gold was done with a base coat of Citadel Retributor Armor, an all over wash of Citadel Druchii Violet, chunky highlight with Citadel Auric Gold, and a final highlight of Vallejo Silver. Mechanicus Standard Grey: Mechanicus Standard Grey is a medium-toned grey with a slight blue cast, making it an excellent choice for adding depth and contrast to your miniatures. When used in conjunction with Zandri Dust, it creates a convincing, weathered effect that is evocative of ancient, worn stone. Bone is a wash of sepia over the zenithal, followed by agrax and then thinned wyldwood. The highlights are morghast and ushabti Not pictured is the giant pile of Tabletop Adapters I’ve had to buy when Jon Kilcullen asked if the base size was correct for Plaguebearers (Pro tip, it wasn’t) On the bright side, it’s now easy to see which model belongs to which squad of 20 or 30 Plaguebearers based on the ring colour.

Much like the man himself, Duncan’s insistence that painters always thinned their paints and applied two thin coats wherever possible sparked a meme that refuses to go away. In fact, so persistent has the meme become that Duncan has released his own line of paints bearing the title “Two Thin Coats Paints”. Hey gang, it’s your boi deezy. Y’all have seen my Raven Guard in HTPE: Raven Guard, but before that project, I was working on my Steel Legion. While I consciously attempted to elevate my painting with the Raven Guard project, my prime directive whilst painting Steel Legion was to get them on the table . This method was effective, as I have over 7,000 points of Steel Legion fully painted. While they look good, especially when massed for battle, they are not up to my standard of painting anymore. I still love them, though. No doubt about it. Infantry Do a nice, light coat. We only need and ok seal/shade from this and we also want to preserve as much detail from the texture paints as possible. STEP FIVE: LAYER IT ON, LIKE THE THEME OF THESE BALLER STEP TITLESAdam: Our paint starter sets are a great way to get your hands on some practice miniatures and the paints you need for them. Each set comes with push-fit models that don’t require glue, and you can choose from Space Marines and Tyranids for Warhammer 40,000, or Stormcast Eternals and Kruleboy Orruks for Warhammer Age of Sigmar. Astra Militarum Kill Team Tactics covers what you need to know about playing Imperial Guard on the smaller battlefields of Kill Team. Kabalite Green: Kabalite Green is a vibrant, deep green shade that is perfect for adding a pop of color to your miniatures. When paired with Zandri Dust, it creates a convincing, weathered metallic finish that is evocative of corroded copper or brass. The spak provides the body to our base, allowing the texture paint, ink and dry brushing to do more effective work.

I’m aiming for a degree of realism with this model, and that goes for the skeletons too. To achieve this, I needed to think about how a body might look if it had been strung up and left in the elements until only the bones remained. That meant looking at a lot of reference images of ancient mummies, desiccated corpses and other such unpleasant things. The final look achieved using the process set out in this tutorial is the culmination of that macabre research. Tempestus Scion models are very detailed and subsequently tedious to paint. I don’t advise going beyond “Battle Ready” if you’ll be doing a lot of them, but if you insist… This is a bit of a irk. As mentioned above, dropper bottles are supposed to reduce waste paint – but dribbly bottles are more prone to depositing excess paint on your palette. Boots/Pouches: I started with Rhinox Hide, then caught these in the same wash of Agrax Earthshade as the pants. I then highlighted with Doombull Brown. Step 5(Left)- This layer is a mix of Hyek Yellow and Dead White. Hit a smaller portion of the Screaming Skull to build up a brighter highlight.

TheChirurgeon’s Method

Now, when I say ‘realistic’ I don’t mean photo-realistic - my painting skills aren’t impressive enough for that! I simply mean that I’m trying to replicate how something might look in nature, rather than using the bolder, more stylised colour schemes that you tend to see with Games Workshop’s studio armies. I suppose ‘naturalistic’ might be a more accurate description. The good news is that this naturalistic look is actually quite easy to achieve. With only a touch of water, the Two Thin Coats paints go on very smoothly. Coverage is very good, but the first – and most glaring difference between the two paints – was that the Two Thin Coats paint was thinner than the Citadel paint. Not to the extent it was counterproductive to painting (funnily enough, I only had to apply two thin coats to get a good opaque colour), but just noticeably so. So I had a mildly intrusive thought a bunch of times when painting, which was that these have some details that slightly remind me of the grunts from halo. Specifically their forearms being slightly thicc, and something about their leaned over pose. The hair is Pink Horror, highlighted with Fulgrim Pink and white, then shaded with Rhinox Hide mixed in and finally glazed withContrast Volupus Pink in the shadows. Duncan’s basic but beautifully executed style made the forbidding word of miniature painting accessible to more people than ever before. Using only a handful of colours and a few brushes, Duncan would deftly create masterfully-painted miniatures with ease – and would impart his knowledge to you as he did so.

Metal: Scale 75 Victorian Brass, Citadel Reichland Flesh wash, Citadel Runefang Silver spot highlight. As I mentioned, this is a fantastic horde base. It doesn’t require any real crafting or planning, and can easily be done in batches. If you don’t like how one particular base turned out, don’t throw it away. Go ahead and use it, and try different paint/wash/drybrush ratios on the next base. Once they are sitting next to 50+ other models with similar bases, they all blend together and any imperfections are entirely lost.

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http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494 My aim with this project was to mimic the box art but not try to go full Heavy Metal on the thing. Be’lakor himself ended up taking about fourteen hours to complete, and the base another nine. This is a great model, full of interesting details. The chainmail and skulls on the tabard are cool as hell, and the whole thing is hanging on rings through his flesh. I could see spending another twenty hours polishing it up into a really nice display or competition piece. Paints Used Of course this scheme works on Guardsmen, but would you believe it works on tanks too? It’s true! Vehicles The implementation of the painting triad system (with Shadow, Mid-tone and Highlight paints) is an excellent idea. This makes understanding colour transition and highlighting so easy for brand-new painters, and also makes grabbing the right colour for your scheme extremely easy. The Imperium is massive, and its core strength comes from its people. There is rarely, if ever, an Imperial conflict that doesn’t involve the Astra Militarum and its forces. As such, they’ve been involved in every major conflict in the Imperium’s history, from the Horus Heresy and the battle for Terra, where Solar Auxiliaries helped defend the Emperor’s Palace, to the Fall of Cadia and the ensuing Indomitus Crusade. The guard are made of a great many regiments whose deeds are legendary, from the Steel Legions of Armageddon to the indomitable forces of Cadia, who held even after the planet itself was destroyed. Where to Read More

Not a dealbreaker, but something to be aware of going forwards. Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats Paints Review – Testing Adam: This is something we can definitely help with – in fact, we have a whole painting tutorial on the Leviathan Siege Dreadnought ! Although ours is painted in the colours of the World Eaters, you can follow the same stages and just substitute whatever colours are needed for your army. Its fine, dusty consistency allows for smooth and even application, resulting in a natural, weathered finish that is evocative of desert landscapes. I really just did a basecoat then wash then highlight with colors mixed with white for the most part. My stuff is mostly tabletop quality and I think this’ll be good enough for that. Fowler’s Method Congrats if you have followed the tute up to this step. Your model is done. You and it are great. Go celebrate this greatness! TheChirurgeon’s Method

Just Deserts

The wood and bark is a mess of colours, there is Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Skarsnik Green, Gaus Blaster Green, Ogryn Camo, Highlights of Zamesi Desert, Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. I used spots of Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh, Skeleton Horde and Nazdreg Yellow in various areas to enhance colours. The tank and the turret were the biggest and most involved subassembly. I painted the turret separately gluing a piece of sprue to the inside to act as a holder. Below I’ve included a list of all the paints used to paint both of these Infiltrators. Of the 60 paints in the range, I managed to use a not-too-shabby 28 of them when painting one miniature. DRPA Two Thin Coats Paint