Gogarth North

Product Information

Abseiling a towards the sea is a wonderful experience. It is a commitment to the route, knowing that the best way out is to climb out. Once on the ledge I secured myself to the anchor and then we faffed with rope and gear until I was ready to climb. This superb new route takes the obvious gap between Gringo/High Noon and Wrangler (which can be clearly seen in the topo on p155 of the Gogarth North guide). Mousetrap (E2 5a) E2 5b, Mousetrap Zawn – Fascinating, but serious trip on the ultimate adventure crag. A full length eliminate climbing the steep and soapy initial wall to the right of Zeus P1, before following a long direct line up the slab right of Wen. Access from the Dream abseil to sea level. Ground UpThis kind of image – pictures of George outnumber those of any other climber – is a fitting tribute to the contribution Smith and others like him have made to the recent development of Gogarth, but it also reinforces the view of many that Gogarth is a loose and dangerous place and not for them. A view that is only amplified in the Introduction with its talk of Gogarth's 'well deserved reputation for wildness' and of its devotees 'wild eyed state of neo-religious zeal.'

Roberts, Jim (1992). Llandudno Past & Present. Sutton Publishing Ltd, Stroud, Gloucestershire. ISBN 0-7509-2903-0. Step left and make a hard move up the steep wall to attain the foot of the obvious slabby gangway leading to the left. Follow the gangway to it’s end, possible belay, then up a short chimney and across a slab to a large groove. Up this to a stance on the arete. The foot of the slab and the start of the sea level traverse is reached by following the path from the descent gully. Traverse horizontally across the slab at first and then diagonally up to reach the spike on the above pitch.We had committed to the route, had a few dramas; a bloody ankle and a sore nose, but successfully climbed this sensational route. Even with the wind and the rain taking away from the pure pleasure of the route, it was still a sensational climb and one that I thoroughly look forward to climbing again. I'm genuinely unsure as to where I stand with these replacement 'pegs' and think that there ought to be a conversation amongst the local climbing community about them. They have re-popularised a few routes which may help keep the mariner's lichen at bay and are a genuine attempt at replacing rotten old pegs with a sustainable solution. With that said, all these routes had been climbed on-sight without any pegs and whilst we call them pegs, they are as close to glue in bolts as you will ever see. Of course, without any pegs, some routes at Gogarth will become so bold that they will rarely see any ascents, however, there are an awful lot of other routes to climb at Gogarth and it's not a crag known for its convenience climbing. Whilst the debate rumbles on, it must be said that Positron (E5 6a) would make an excellent 6c+ multi-pitch sport route. Atmospheric and inspiring action shots from the best climbing photographers available including: Ray Wood Jethro Kiernan Glenn Robbins and Dave Kendall

This is what most people come to climb and it is a great outing, one of the best in the World! The original route is described here and it requires an equally matched team, as the traverse on the last pitch is no place for a fall. Start below a corner/groove capped by an overlap.

Species

Yet another superb line, the first pitch has a hard crux and the sustained second pitch is one of the finest at Gogarth. Start 2m left of Hunger, about 12m left of the chimney of Mammoth Direct, directly beneath a line of undercut flakes. Saxon (1578). Map of Anglesey and Caernarvonshire. Great Orme peninsula labelled as "Ormeshead Point". The medieval parish of Llandudno comprised three townships all established on the lower slopes of the Great Orme. The township of Y Gogarth at the south-western 'corner' of the Great Orme was latterly the smallest but it contained the palace of the Bishop of Bangor. The Manor of Gogarth (which included all three townships) had been bestowed on Anian, Bishop of Bangor by King Edward I in 1284 in recognition of services rendered to the crown, notably the baptism of the first English Prince of Wales, newly born at Caernarfon. The palace was burnt down by Owain Glyndŵr in 1400 and the ruins have mostly been washed away together with much of the township by coastal erosion in the Conwy Estuary.

Rap (VS 4c) VS 4c, Castell Helen – Fine open wall climbing on the friendliest of the big sea cliffs. Red Wall (E2 5b) E2 5b, Red Wall – Deeply memorable experience on a mesmerising and challenging cliff. Landscaped gardens in the Happy Valley and terraces in the Haulfre Garden cover the lower landward facing steeply sloping southern side. Walkways link the Haulfre Gardens with the western end of the Marine Drive. What a route. Perfect day. Perfect weather (save for the windy and cold start). The traverse is euphoric! The route really is worth the esteem it is given. feet 5c. Climb the steep ramp leading diagonally leftwards to a peg runner. Step left and climb to the top of a loose flake. Climb the shallow groove and the small overhang and continue more easily, trending left, to a large ledge.Look out for wildlife including Chough birds which are small crows with red beaks, Silver-Studded Blue butterflies, grazing sheep and goats, and glow worms which come out at night, as well as a variety of wildflowers. Over on the Llŷn, Dan Mcmanus and Pete Robins have developed a popular DWS venue with three safe and pumpy pitches between 7a and 7b+. Adding to the increasingly popular sport routes at Tyddyn Hywel Quarry is Pete Robins' new three-star 7b Beasley Street (7b). Ffynnon Gaseg. Literally "Mare's well", this spring was revealed at the side of the road, about halfway round and near the highest point, during the construction of the Marine Drive in the 19th century. It was ideally situated to refresh the horses on the five-mile carriage drive round the base of the Great Orme. Climb the wall behind the stance, trending left to a small bulge near the top. Surmount this and and scramble to the final belay.