adidas Men's Bc0884 Track Shoe

Product Information

Let me draw a mental image for you. Picture a straight line coming 90º from your heel through the center of your foot and out of your toes. Standing barefoot most pinky toes are considerably farther away from that ‘center line’ than the big toe is; something to do with how our feet evolved from grasping to standing kinda needed that to happen, I guess. I dunno, I’m not a foot scientist. In my mind there is one unifying purpose of all climbing shoes: to gather those little piggies up and pool their resources in a messed-up fleshy Voltron– turning our feet into singular en-toe-ties (get it? entities, but like, with toes ? Ah nevermind) allowing maximum force and surface area, pushing us to send the gnar. Sportiva’s lasts by my experience have always done that gathering from the little toes toward the big one which really focuses as much pressure as possible onto the strong boi, the hallux (still not a foot scientist, I just asked wikipedia.) The Anasazi Pro feels more like there is a rubberband around all of my toes, gathering them together like a stinky bouquet and pulling them all towards that centerline which seems counterintuitive and ultimately makes this shoe uncomfortable to me. Let me open Photoshop and draw you an actual picture: Fig 1. A Bare foot; Fig 2. A Symmetrical Last; Fig 3. An Asymmetrical Last Everyone loves a history lesson (you can skip this if you want to just read about how the shoe performs, which is probably what you came for). I was going to use the title 'nomenclature' but I thought it was a bit too high-brow for a review. The NIAD VCS is the new version of the Anasazi but it's undergone a name change: out with the Anasazi and in with the Nose In A Day title. The NIAD range includes a few new iterations of classic modes: a new Anasazi, Moccasym and Pink. The Anasazi Lace is a slightly asymmetric, moderately downturned shoe. It is designed with a roomy toe box that allows the forefoot to lie flat rather than in a curled position, and has a medium-stiff midsole. The result? The Pink feels supportive and firm, offering power and stability on edges, although it is flexible enough to smear and slab when sized loosely or once well-broken-in. And just as a refresher: Softer shoes—like the La Sportiva Skwama or Five Ten Hiangle—do not provide this same stability needed for precise edging, but enable you to toe-in better on steep routes. Plus, you’re able to feel the holds more underfoot, which many climbers like. In this Five Ten Anasazi Lace review, we will look at some of the standout features of these shoes, and what that means in terms of performance. Toe Box

One glaring shortcoming of the original line was the fit of the heel. It was odd, baggy, and nonconforming, and that’s being nice. The new heel is none of those. The Five Ten NIAD Lace has a heel that followed the contour of my narrow heel well, with slight gapping at the bottom rear of my heel. Another unmissable addition to the VCS is the toe patch, an almost essential requirement for any modern performance shoe. This triangular-shaped patch sits over the big toe and instantly upgrades the shoe’s ability when it comes to bouldering and gym climbing. Directly underneath the rubber, in the interior of the shoe, the toe patch is lined with a higher-friction material, which helps toe hooking feel super secure. If gnarly bat hangs aren’t your thing, that’s not a problem, the new toe patch is significantly smaller than the full coverage of the Anasazi Pro, so it allows the toe box to remain flexible and unintrusive when not in use. The Heel With amedium-stiff sole, flat last, low asymmetry, and a healthy dose of that legendary C4 rubber, this is an incredibly comfortable and precise shoe that is ideal for long days at the crag. Even at a glance, it is obvious that the Anasazi VCS is designed for vertical – or less than vertical – climbing. That’s not to say you can’t climb a monster overhang or roofs in them, but this certainly takes a lot more effort than Five Ten’s performance shoes. The Pinks have handled most styles of climbing I have thrown at them. From slabs to vertical and slightly steeper walls, they feel great. Be warned though, that the Pinks will reach their limit on very steep sport, bouldering, or modern competition routes. The Pink is our favorite shoe for vertical face climbing, and one of the most time-tested, high-performing all-arounders money can buy.

The toe pad is a mystery to me. Largely because I’m not Batman and find bicycle maneuvers in the gym about as useful as a cowboy hat on a crowded subway. The diamond-shaped pattern appears to really only function well for me when loaded laterally (side to side across the top of the foot) rather than directly pulling ‘up’ towards my face, so it feels more like inverted scumming with my toes than hooking. When pulling hard with the toe I find it functions best when it is above my center of mass rather than beside or below me. I also noticed that the Mi6 rubber is noticeably slippery when not on heavily textured surfaces such as on volumes. Only when I’ve got an extreme amount of force on the toe pad can I begin to feel confident in using it. I do however need to add the caveat that I’ve been skipping leg day . This maneuver only feels secure when there’s a ton of lateral force on the toe pad. So Gym then? Once I got to the gym, it didn’t take long to realize the Anasazi Pro is not really a Pro performer in anything in particular, at least not enough in a way that is reasonable to market. Hot take, I know. I wish I could say I was impressed or discouraged immediately with any specific outcome, but it was a little more nuanced than that and really depended on what I was doing. In my mind a Pro-influenced or designed shoe would have pro features baked in and apparent, here the additions to the old design seem like a well-executed afterthought. On the whole, always hard to tell after just a few sessions but I’d say it’s not much different to the original Anasazis (other than the sizing). Then again, I thought the same about the new Anasazis, which some people didn’t like apparently. May be my footwork is so bad that I can’t tell the difference 🤣 Sizing - this has definitely changed from the original and is probably the same as the updated Anasazis, i.e. I need to go up half a size. These images were taken after several months of constant use and speak to the quality of the manufacturing.

The Anasazi VCS is certainly more than comfortable enough to have strapped on for an hour or two before tapping out.The Stealth C4 rubber is a fairly standard 3.5mm along the sole, with a thinner strip over the toe. Therefore, most of the NIAD's stiffness comes from the midsole. First impressions aside let’s get into performance a bit here. Having a home woody makes testing a bit of a convenience so I first pulled onto an overhang and poked my foot at a small jib. “I don’t really have much of a toe here but, this rubber… well I…” I edged onto some tiny sharp edges on some slab and lowered my heels, “hmm, not bad…better than ok, actually” then I stood on some slopey dual-tex foot nubbins on the vertical wall and did a few toe-ups, “Wuuuuut? Well now that’s impressive…” I slumped onto the giant beanbags I use for crashpads, mouth agape. This. rubber. I’m not lying when I say I had no words. ME: speechless. The cat couldn’t believe it either. Testing Disclaimer (3?): I’d recommend anyone looking to leave behind the gym rentals to try the VCS as they will provide a high level of comfort and durability on a wide range of climb types. In this honest Five Ten Anasazi VCSreview, I will talk you through some of the best and worst features of this hugely popular Anasazi model. Let’s get started! Toe Box

Overall, I have been really impressed with the Anasazi VCS, so much so that I decided to get them re-soled instead of throwing them on the used pile. If I could change anything about these shoes it would be to have more toe rubber and a wrap-around heel… So basically the Anasazi Pros. Bringing the top of the heel cup slightly forward towards the toe box has done this shoe a couple of great favors. The added rubber on the heel has been carved to an angle that is actually helpful for heel hooking (more on that later) and hey, no foot fart! So… yay? This could also be another reason why standing flat in the Anasazi Pro feels so awkward at times. Like my weight is being forced towards the front of the shoe a bit, as if my toes are on a tiny curb and my heels are in the street. (I’ll talk about this more when we get to performance). With regards to sizing the NIAD VCS use Five Ten's new sizing model: wear your shoe size. Sounds crazy doesn't it? You just wear your street shoe size. I think it's great: for a comfortable fit wear exactly your street shoe size, for performance go down a size and for all-day comfort wear a half size up. I wear mine in a UK 9.5 (and my trainers in a 10) and they're tight enough for technical climbing but still comfortable. I have worn a few different pairs of Five Tens since they implemented this new system and I have to say it works really well and seems to produce consistently-sized shoes, which is something that many brands seem to struggle with (including Five Ten in the past). After extended periods of time standing in the Anasazi Pro, I almost feel as if I have to stand bow-legged to compensate for the loss I feel of side-to-side balance, not to mention the pain from the pressure on the tops of my big toes that I’m still not used to after all these months. I ran around the house looking at all the shoes I owned; none of them are nearly this symmetrical. “Welp. Unless I rest most of my weight on my heels, chilling on a ledge for hours is probably out.” I said. The cat was nonplussed.

That said, despite the fact that the Anasazi is now a relatively old shoe, you still see it everywhere. Whenever I see a photo of Ned Feehally he always seems to be wearing them; Shauna Coxsey often wears the extremely popular women's version in competition;, and on a recent trip to Leonidio I often saw a pair at the crag. The Anasazi Pro therefore has a lot to live up to! So what's changed and how would I get on with it compared to the classic shoe? What's new? For granite or other climbing that involves edging and foot jamming for long durations, the Five Ten NIAD Lace is a comfortable yet high-performance option that does the old Anasazi line more than justice.

I got these a half-size down from my regular street shoe in hopes I would be able to crank them down a bit when necessary and use them as the all-around boot they are purported to be. The length seems just about right however the toe box is loose on the outside edges and tight against my big toe. As the comfy-ness waned I started to hone in on just what was so weird about the way these shoes fit: the Anasazi Pros are noticeably symmetrical compared to just about everything I have ever climbed (or walked) in. Soft enough for smearing, stiff enough to edge, combined with great toe jams and a precise big toe this is a great all-around shoe for beginners and advanced climbers alike.I think Five Ten have found the sweet spot between comfort and performance with this mid-priced shoe. Having to buy one pair of shoes is a persuasive economic argument for any occasional or all-around climber. The Pink might not boast the flashy appearance of an Italian-made shoe, but don’t let looks deceive you—its design is thoughtful, tried-and-true, and well-executed. Five Ten’s synthetic “Cowdura” fabric wraps around the foot in a single swath on each side, resulting in minimal seams and a simple transition from rand to upper. The lined Cowdura is designed to maintain all of leather’s comfort and breathability while minimizing stretch. On this front, the material performs admirably, and the shoe holds its shape better than leather models like La Sportiva’s Katana and Miura. Further, a thorough lacing system where the uppers meet provides great versatility in the fit and shape of the shoe. And no matter the terrain I’m on, the laces never press down hard into my skin thanks to the minimally reinforced tongue.As mentioned above, the NIAD VCS maintains the Anasazi's unlined, minimal stretchCowdura (suede microfibre) upper, so doesn't stretch much at all and offers some breathability (even in this year's Summer heatwaves) and abrasion resistance. Pulling from Five-Ten's iconic heritage and legendary range of climbing shoes, the NIAD VCS is the new re-imagined version of the ever-popular and renowned Five-Ten Anasazi. Designed for all-round performance, the NIAD VCS sits comfortably on all disciplines of climbing, seldom-seen is a shoe that performs so well trad-climbing but is also relied upon by world-cup level competition climbers. When I first got the shoes I took them off maybe twice a session but after a little while, I was happy spending multiple hours in these shoes. I probably could have gone a half size down if I really wanted to go for that performance fit.