Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Magos Purple (18ml)

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Another layer, adding more Pallid Wych Flesh focussed on the sharpest edges and most raised surfaces. Emma: Regally vibrant, Luxion Purple keeps a bright tone even in the darker areas of your miniatures – great for Hedonites of Slaanesh and the Emperor’s Children . This is my favourite purple Contrast of all time! After I lay down these colors, it’s time for shading. I cover the model in liberal coats of Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade to tint the skin and give it more color depth. These go on haphazardly, but I’ll pool around the sores and add streaks in key places like below open sores and wounds to give it the skin a stained appearance from whatever was seeping out. I’ll also add a bit of Coelia Greenshade where I want more green hues. Wash pink parts with a thin mix of Contrast Magus Purple/Contrast Medium, wash the blue parts with a thin mix of Contrast Akhelian Green, both focusing on the recesses. For my Great Unclean One there was a layer of fatty tissue around a big wound. I took a chance and painted the Poisonous Cloud which is a very light yellow-green and washed with the Carroburg Crimson (or maybe it was the Fleshshade. I should write things down). The result was a very good looking fatty-pus layer, or at least I think it came out well. I also dry brushed some of the Dechala Lilac around the wound to give it a bit of rot and bruising look.

Basecoat any claws with Lupercal Green, shade with Coelia Greenshade, highlight with Sons of Horus GreenThe banner I went for a flayed skin attempt with Contrast Guilliman Flesh and Contrast Blood Angel Red on each side. The plan being it should be easy to apply transfers at a later date. The banner pole is Contrast Wyldwood The next step is shading everything for that Battle Ready look. First I shaded the parchment with Agrax Earthshade thinned with Lahmian Medium in a 1:1 mix, then used it straight from the pot for the gold parts. For the silver metallics, the red eye lenses, and the Crux Terminatus. I used one part Contrast Medium to one part Basilicanum Grey . For the blue armour, I just used Basilicanum Grey for a recess shade, which is taking it straight from the pot and painting only in the recessed areas. Then I shaded the helmets with Calgar Blue thinned with two parts Lahmian Medium, just in the recesses. You can also use this to highlight your armour or just drybrush it on.

I like to start with a nice dark purple – I’ve got a Vallejo Warlord Purple or a Xereus purple that work well. Generally, then I like to wash with a Red like the Carroburg Crimson – that nice mix of Purple guts and Red blood filling in the crevices. This works for all of these things, as it’s all kind of the same rotting innards, and the same undercoat helps tie them all together as coming from inside the carcass. I like to start dark because it would be dark and poorly lit inside the body. For muscles I like to go with the Screamer Pink. It’s a nice reddish purple that gives the idea of muscles without being too bright of a red that it would look like a fresh, bleeding wound. I like to think of these as rotting more than bleeding wounds, but hey I’m not your supervisor.Kraken laid waste to Craftworld Iyanden, forcing its Farseers to rouse a massive number of Wraithguard and Wraithlords in its defence. It took the intervention of Prince Yriel – arriving suddenly from exile to cripple the Tyranid fleet – to turn the tide, and the narrow victory left the craftworld as a gaunt shadow of its former self. Time to do tthe eyes with a spot of white. I also edge highlight the under-lids and smooth out the transitions on the upper lip. I do a final set of highlights on the bottom lip with a 50/50 mix of Emperor’s Children and Reaper Pure White to give it a glossy look. My boy has beautiful, kissable lips. I highlight the teeth with Rakarth Flesh and then Reaper Polished Bone. I’m going to do the same on the horns eventually. Emma: I’ll start off by batch painting Termagants because there are a lot of these in the box, and once you know how to paint these little biomass-devouring creatures, you’ll know how to paint the rest of your Tyranids, as they all feature the same constituent parts. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. With the release of Engine War we’re looking at the forces of the Chaos Daemons, and this instalment is dedicated to Grandfather Nurgle. Who are the Daemons of Nurgle? WarCom: There are many other miniatures in the box with some quite different looks. Any tips for these?

I hit the scales and the top of the banner in places with Runefang Steel so that when I paint the scales and fur with Contrast Shyish Purple there is a nice metallic sheen. I also hit the crab claw as well.Iyanden Yellow and Nazdreg Yellow were a dream for painters when they first dropped – easy-to-achieve yellows in one coat! Bad Moon Yellow provides an even brighter choice, especially over a White Scar undercoat. For Horns I generally use Banshee Brown, Skrag Brown, or Deathclaw brown. I do like to get a bit fancy sometimes. I like to try and wet blend from a Deathclaw Brown or Skrag Brown up to the Banshee for a nice little growth gradient. I’ve done a few where I start with a Vallejo Beasty Brown or Charred Brown to the Deathclaw and then to the Banshee for a real shift in colors. You can help with this gradient by doing a second wash on only the darker part of the gradient after the first has dried. I have also found you can get some interesting effects if you use a second color wash before the first has dried completely – like doing a Reikland or Carroburg over the Agrax just at the very base where it comes out of the flesh. Just make sure to wash your brushes so you don’t cross contaminate your wash pots. Eyes Paint the base white/Wraithbone. Cover the base in Citadel Blood Angels Red Contrast (I lied about not using it, at least on the bases). While the paint is wet, bleed in some Citadel Troll Slayer Orange and stir it in places to give some variation to the red. Green Chitin and Cloth: – Wash with Terradon Turquoise. – Layer with Lupercal Green, leaving the deepest recesses. – Highlight with Kabalite Green, focusing on the raised areas of the cloth/carapace. – Edge Highlight with Sybarite Green – Edge Highlight any bladed/horned parts of the carapace with Dawnstone. (Larger areas of Chitin on Metamorphs/Purestrains, Patriarch can be carefully Drybrushed instead for a more naturalistic, less clean look).