XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit

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Preface: This information may be out of date as this method doesn't seem to work as well as it used to. It's possible that due to some changes in PETG filament structure that makes it easier to print also makes it harder to dissolve. It's also possible, that despite finding positive results in other communities using this method and materials, there was some different variable in their process. In any case, this appears not to work any more. Coat any 3D Print Surface - XTC-3D® can be applied to both SLA and SLS prints. It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper. No longer it matters the good that it was your printer 3D, with XTC-3D will be able to cover any defect of printing and soften all the surfaces. At present objects printed matter with ABS or PLA through technology FDM are not able to obtain surfaces totally sleek. At present the users of 3D printing to achieve better finishing in these pieces use knives , sandpaper , ketones So , all of them very little practical .From here it arises the competitive advantage of XTC-3D, since in so alone some minutes achieves soften and polish any surface. It achieves to delete 90% of the current work post finishing. This special coating full stretch marks and softens all printed surfaces in 3D. Just use acetone on 0.06mm layer prints, its a lot easier, less messier and has no problems with sharp corners either. But this XTC 3D might be better for 0.1 mm and lower layer prints Post Finishing – Cured material can be machined or sanded (wear NIOSH approved respirator mask to prevent inhalation).

The XTC-3D can be spread on the model with ease and the process resembles regular painting. It is diluted enough so that there is no problem with even applying it to the model, and it is dense enough that it does not drip of while painting (though in the course of drying it does a little – though only from the fragments which are at high angles towards the ground, about 75-90º). Mixing by volume is the easiest method, and with the included graduated medicine cup you can easily see the volume.Thinning XTC-3D® for Coating Starch / Powder Printed Parts: Viscosity can be lowered with acetone or denatured alcohol to penetrate porous parts. Smoothing Surface – granular surface texture can be smoothed by applying a second coat of XTC-3D® (for glossy finish) or lightly sanding for matte finish. Smoothing Surface – granular surface texture can be smoothed by applying a second coat of XTC-3D™ (for glossy finish) or lightly sanding for matte finish. Before you start working with the material, you should be well prepared for the job. The XTC-3D has a very short curing time after mixing, and therefore after mixing the components it is best to begin coating the model with the resin immediately. You should also pay attention to such details as how you are going to hold the model, or what is it going to be attached to. The material takes at least two hours to dry, so holding it by an appendix which you have just covered with resin is out of the question. Although it may seem obvious, keep it in mind from the start – otherwise you will have to paint the model in parts (which is sometimes inevitable anyway). Acetone works only for ABS - so for PLA it would be Chloroform which is extremly dangerous because it is generating fumes.

We tested the XTC-3D on prints made of the following materials: ABS, PLA, woodFill and the t-glase. The manufacturers ensure that the material will also work on prints made of resin, gypsum powder or sintered polymeric powder and… I see no reason not to believe them. The material seems to be able to cover virtually any surface. Applying XTC-3D: Use a disposable chip brush or foam brush to apply XTC-3D®. To achieve the thinnest coating possible we recommend applying material with a foam brush. Brushing on one thin layer of mixed material is recommended for most prints to create a smooth, uniform coating: less than 1/64“(.039 cm). To avoid drips and runs, continue brushing and working the surface until the resin begins to set up. For particularly complicated prints with intricate detail you may want to coat one a section at a time for better control. XTC-3D® bonds to itself.Because no two applications are quite the same, a small test application to determine suitability for your project is recommended if performance of this material is in question. I have had similar problems and the issue seems to be dirt or some other material that prevents the surface from wetting properly. The coating seems to brush on OK, but then patches thin as the resin retreat from these regions, and the spots appear. Its seems the surface tension of the XTC-3D is exceeding the affinity between the XTC-3D and the surface being coated. Same reason oily spots on a glass surface prevent water from forming a smooth sheet. Or spray paint fails to coat dirty patches. I'm way late to the party and signed up just to respond (I have a different 3D writer, but I wanted to contribute something I didn't see already posted (or maybe it was just in German). Preparation – Materials should be stored and used in a room temperature environment (23°C). Elevated temperatures will reduce Pot Life. XTC-3D® Part A resin and Part B Hardener must be properly measured and thoroughly mixed to achieve full, high-strength, solid-cure properties. Time & Labor Savings:XTC-3D® fills in 3D print striations and creates a smooth, high gloss finish. The need to post finish is almost eliminated.

Post Finishing: Cured material can be machined or sanded (wear NIOSH approved respirator mask to prevent inhalation). Also for this part I printed a jig which fitted on the bottom so that could rotate the part as I coated it without getting my hands on the part itself. I think this is down to experience to get it right - On my first few attempts I was suffering on runs on non-horizontal surfaces (good finish where it did not run though)so I gradually loaded the brush with less XTC 3D until I got to a point where I did not get runs.Measuring and Dispensing – You need to be accurate in measuring for XTC-3D® to cure properly. Parts A and B can be measured by either volume or weight. Dispense proper proportions of parts A and B into clean plastic, metal or wax-free paper containers (do not use foam or glass cups). The answer in all these cases is the same. Clean the surface. Use a cleaner or solvent compatible with the surface being treated. Deodorized mineral spirits (mineral spirits minus toluene and other aromatic hydrocarbons) work well for many surfaces. One possible solution, though I haven't had an opportunity to try it since I heard about it, is to thin the XTC-3D with acetone or denatured alcohol. These should lower the surface tension and increase surface penetration. And of course, use appropriate safety precautions regardless of what you do. At the least, use gloves with epoxy as exposure to it can sensitize resulting in nasty allergic reactions on re-exposure. XTC-3D®is a protective coating for smoothing and finishing 3D printed parts. It does not melt plastic. Two liquids are mixed together and brushed onto any 3D print. Coating self-levels and wets out uniformly without leaving brush strokes. Working time is 10 minutes and cure time is about 4 hours (depending on mass and temperature). XTC-3D® cures to a hard, impact resistant coating that can be sanded, primed and painted. Adding colors and metal effects is easy. Any product that you have subsequently cut, shaped, broken or modified, unless found to be faulty or defective. The two "blobs" ringed in blue were a result of the "running problem I mentioned, now overcome. If you look at the strut on the right, at the lower left corner you will see some roughness on the edge which is a result of the scanned image.

One issue was that whilst smooth it did not look great to the end customer so we added some of the XTC colouring to the mix. As you can see the 3D printed layer lines etc. have disappeared. Applying XTC-3D® - Use a disposable chip brush or foam brush to apply XTC-3D®. To achieve the thinnest coating possible we recommend applying material with a foam brush. Brushing on one thin layer of mixed material is recommended for most prints to create a smooth, uniform coating: less than 1/64“(.039 cm). To avoid drips and runs, continue brushing and working the surface until the resin begins to set up. For particularly complicated prints with intricate detail you may want to coat one a section at a time for better control. XTC-3D® bonds to itself. If

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Extending Working Time - If left in a mixing cup with a concentrated mass, pot life will be short and material may cure in your cup due to exotherm. Important - Reduce the mass of the mixture to increase working time. Example: layer two sheets of aluminum foil together and create a single-use flat tray with vertical sides to contain the liquid resin. After mixing parts A and B, pour mixture into the aluminum foil to reduce the mass. Your working time will be significantly increased.