Silverline Magnetiser/Demagnetiser 50 x 50 x 30mm (245116)

Product Information

Now I know Ron Dodd of HRCA builds and sells an excellent magnetiser and has done some excellent YouTube clips. However I can't really justify buying one for one or two locomotives which constantly lose magnetic strength, don't really want to use neo's either.

Tri-ang magnets do not seem to suffer from demagnetisation, though I have found a few. X.04s respond to the same treatment and I've fixed a couple of motor bogies by simply attaching a couple of magnets to the pole pieces. With the usage of precise meters (Gaussmeter orFluxmeter) and a modified softwareour impulse magnetizers are expandable for magnetic calibrations It's a multi tool, idea for magnetising screw drivers etc, I've a 1 inch core solenoid for spanners.Although the initial outlay may be a little high, it is still more economical than replacing your magnets with Neo types which WILL, in the long run cause undue and excessive wear to your precious mechanisms. (See note) or the ever increasing cost of sending your locos by post to get re-magnetised. Note:- A standard Hornby Dublo loco with a standard (re-magnetised) magnet as originally designed, has more pulling power than you will ever reasonably need. I have demonstrated this on my YouTube channel with a (weighted) Duchess locomotive and 30 coaches in tow (over 25 feet long) without overloading the motor. This one is based on an original Meccano design saw the plans somewhere, next stage is source all the electrical components if still available. Getting the roughly the right number of turns is the easy bit, work out diameter of wire, think its 0.018 of an inch divide into length of coil 2 ins, then divide into 2600 which worked out about an inch from inner row. Don't forget to thread though the inner row first, use a cordless drill, great fun watching it wind. Alternately, if the building of it a project you want to do... you could start looking at this article for a relatively home-brewed machine - they are quite substantial.

Magnetising fixtures are generally custom designed for each application, and therefore should be the first thing to consider when purchasing a magnetising system. Fixtures can be supplied with many different types of magnetisation patterns from simple 2 pole solenoids, to complex multipole systems. As a long time manufacturer of permanent magnets, in particularly bonded Neodymium ring magnets, Bunting Magnetics have been manufacturing magnetising fixtures for our own internal use for many years, and have developed a particular area of expertise in the design of multipole magnetising systems for radial or axial ring magnet assemblies or sensor magnets. Magnetic filtration has dramatically cleaned up our fluids and improved the surface finish we can offer. It extracts around 50Kg per day of ferrous waste."volt supply - 5 circuits of a train set 'oval' in 25 seconds for most, hauling 4 SD6 coaches. (Just over 100 scale mph.) If its for open frame motors such as Hornby Dublo, Triang etc, then it will be more efficient and lower cost to replace (or supplement) the original magnets with neodymium magnets. they are very strong and so they will lower current need and improve running lots. A typical Bunting magnetising system consists of a capacitor discharge magnetiser, a magnetising fixture and sometimes an additional automatic handling system. Bunting Magnetics Europe manufactures both magnetisers and fixtures in the UK to our own standard design or to bespoke customer designs. Vertical motors tend to be critical of brush tension, I have always found. For the 1/2" and Tri-ang motors it seems to make little difference.

I wondered myself. I try to aim for all my Dublo locomotives to achieve the specification* speed/load haulage set out in the 'bible', allowing a few seconds for age. Most manage it, but a few excel. Owning a reasonable Hornby Dublo collection over last 50 years I am aware that some locomotives lose the magnetic strength. Some 40 odd years ago built a simple magnetiser from old solenoids (1inch plus iron core diameter) using a car battery as a source of current. So using some information about original Meccano magnetiser found some 26 gauge wire and made some coils using 3/8 pole pieces, wire coiled 2600 times.Alternately my first web/google search for "DC motor re-magnetiser" showed several circuits of widely differing complexity: including the interesting link above.

The news that Ron's demagnetiser is no more is totally false as I just collected mine from him this afternoon (he lives very local). I usually replace dodgy magnets with a pair of 6mm cube neodymium magnets* padded with a couple of steel washers. A full sized neo. is too strong in my opinion, but I calculated this size should have roughly the same strength as an original magnet and seems to work OK. (3-4 times as strong will require roughly a quarter of the area.)Ihave listed this as “used condition” as it is a homemade article, but all the parts are new and it’s only use has beenin testing and proving the product. Does anyone know if Ron Dodd still supplies his re-magnetiser by special request as I know they are no longer generally available? I think the deal now doesn't include the multi-meter but as they are as cheap as chips and I already have one then not an issue as it's still incredibly cheap at twice the price. No more sending off for an 'expert' to do the business or having to use neos soI'm now off to remove all my neos and reinstate the originals. My loco collection is quite small at 7 so I tend to use neo magnets when the originals begin to fade as it's cheaper than having to send them off to a specialist restorer. However as neos can cause greater wear and tear to the bearings and my collection will probably expand over time I'm wondering if Ron may be willing/able to oblige possibly?