Tamiya Acrylic Mini X-27 Clear Red

Product Information

Graininess with Tamiya gloss colors (and clears) is often the result of the paint not being wet enough for it to level. This often happens at the edge of the spray pattern, resulting in each pass leaving a grainy edge which is not covered by successive passes. I'm not looking for cars, but "car like finish" for my aircraft. I've been searching online and it looks like it is indeed possible to use tamiya x-22 as a clear coat but I looks like they're using laquer thinner as opposed to IPA which is what I was using.

Anybody else use Tamiya X-22 Clear for a gloss coat before Anybody else use Tamiya X-22 Clear for a gloss coat before

Apply multiple thin coats and do not use a substitute thinner like Isopropyl alcohol as this flashes off faster than X-20A thinner. Though it will thin Tamiya paint, never use water as a thinner.It sounds like you are trying to brush paint instead of spraying? My advice is not to. Clear paint usually looks terrible when brushed. I tried brushing them when I do static models but now airbrush them these days. Tamiya now recommend that for missing colours you use the PS spray paints and simply spray into the cap for brushing." However, I do not have experience with polishing afterwards. I guess it is wise to let cure properly for a couple of days. Also, after the clear red dries, how easily can I paint over it if I make a mistake? Will GW washes work on it? Anything else I need to know? Also, since I want to do an alternate paint sceme, I may not paint the force weapons blue. So I may use the clear red there too over a metallic. Unlike with all the lettering though, where it is small and detailed, this would be clear red applied to flat surfaces. Not sure if it is streaky / coats evenly / etc; if it would work there.

Best paint for blood? : r/minipainting - Reddit Best paint for blood? : r/minipainting - Reddit

Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrene resins, Styrofoam, wood, plus all of the common model plastics. The paint covers well, flows smoothly, and can be blended easily. Prior to curing, paint can be washed away with plain water. I've brushed the Tamiya clear red, needs thinning slightly more to slow it drying really. Works for small areas fine so a Maine is fine but a rhino isn't as good.Thinking of using some of the Tamiya Clear Acrylics (X-27 Red, X-26 Orange, X-24 Yellow) for tail lights instead of decals on the couple of bodies I'm working on. Has anyone had any experience using them in this fashion, or should I attempt using the PS variants (37, 43, 42) - which will require more masking - instead? Here is an example with Mr Colour silver and Mr Colour clear colours air brushed but they have clear colours in rattle cans too. I am not sure yet, but here is what I am thinking. I'm doing GK / henchman and wanted an option other than straight gold for all of the wordy bits on the Grey Knight's armor. But I still want it to be metallic-y. I know people have applied multiple layers of ink to make colored metallics, but that is super time consuming and would be frustrating to do on all the little bits each model has. So I figured if I wanted a reddish metallic, I could paint this clear red over the gold. And maybe use a wash on it after that. My mates son just did his first slot car shell using sharpies why didn't I think of that haha .. but yes they probably would work also. Candy paint" is basically just any transparent paint over a base of another color, usually silver or gold. But you can use any paint as a base. Since it's your first experiment with this and your using Tamiya spray cans I'd recommend their transparent red over the metallic red ,, the one that looks like metallic pink, That will be easier to get a consistent color with less light and dark areas then using strait silver or gold as a base. Use light mist coats to build up the depth of candy you want then clearcoat it after it's dried a few days.

X-27 Clear Red Gloss Tamiya x27 - Super-Hobby

I use Vallejo for 2 reasons; 1. due to delivery restrictions, it is difficult for me to get spray cans (or any type) and 2. I can easily mix up colors I want. Mixing PS paints while possible, is a pain. I actually hate them when I was building static models but they are great for my RC. To achieve a “Candy” appearance you want a metallic base and a clear colour coat. Experiment with base coats such as chrome, high metallic flake silver or gold. More recently I did this with Tamiya clear red, added a touch of clear blue and shot it over metallic rose gold ( rose gold depending on the angle can't quite decide if it a light goldish red/pink or silver red/ pink. But the clear red looks awesome over it, or the blue for that matter.Tamiya acrylic paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush painting or air-brushing. These paints can be used on styrene resins, Styrofoam, wood, plus all of the common model plastics. The paint covers well, flows smoothly and can be blended easily. Prior to curing, paint can be washed away with plain water. I've used VHT night shades clear red over a gold base and it gave a great candy effect. It's available at auto parts stores. There is also their Metal Cast line in other clear colors. I haven't tried those yet, but I assume they work the same. Don't spray it with lacquer clearcoat though. It acts like spraying lacquer over enamel and wrinkles really bad.

Tamiya Clear Red vs Forgeworld Angron Red - + GENERAL PCA Tamiya Clear Red vs Forgeworld Angron Red - + GENERAL PCA

But I always do a thorough cleaning with isopropil and it's about the same work no matter which I ran through the airbrush. I wouldn't use them straight out of the pot. I made a 50/50 mix in a separate 40ml dropper pot, works great. For better paint brushing results use Tamiya Paint Retarder (87114) for a smoother brushstroke free finish. Hi MentalGuru, for the longest time, I found Tamiya clear gloss and gloss acrylics difficult to work with. Recently I've found that a 1.5:1 Tamiya thinner to paint ratio works really well. As with everything, a light coat followed by successive wet coats seems to yield fantastic results that look even better once it's levelled and cured for at least 48hrs...I said I wanted to do this on the traditionally gold bits of the GK armor - the wording, found on the shoulder pads, and in 4 or so places on the body of the armor, I don't think an airbrush will save time there!!! Gosh, think of how many hours it would take to tape off 90% of the model that I wanted to stay silver.