Joined in 2023 
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63 About this deal
Skinnier seatposts are in vogue at the moment for the same reason skinny seatstays are popular: the theory is that they offer greater flex and therefore comfort.
Seatpost diameters are usually a multiple of 0.2 mm (but not always, as tables 1 and 2 show). If a measured value differs and most closely matches a value that is not a multiple of 0.2, there is a high probability that the closest multiple of 0.2 mm size will fit. For example, a measured 25.5 will most probably fit a 25.4 mm wide (nominal and measured width) seatpost. A rule of thumb is that the widest post that slides in without being forced (other than pushing or twisting by hand) is the right one. If it drops in, with play, before the pinch bolt is tightened, the seatpost is probably too narrow.Method 1: if the frame already has a mounted matching seatpost – one that attaches firmly enough so it doesn’t slide, while being narrow enough to allow easy mounting and dismounting – then it is sufficient to measure its outer diameter, as was explained above in the section –“How to measure the seatpost diameter?”. The first bicycle frames were made mostly from steel, with steel tubes of a standard (outer) diameter. The British and Italian standard diameter for seat tubes was 1 1/8″ (28.6 mm). Older French bicycles used 28 mm tubing. Old US bicycles (mostly BMX and older bikes that used one-piece cranks) was 1″ (25.4 mm).
The safest way to determine this is to measure (I like to say that one good measurement is better than a thousand expert opinions 🙂 ). If you don't feel your bike needs to be any more comfortable, and you're not fussed about 100 grams, then aluminium seems like a smart choice. If you want to drop the weight or add some cushion, look to spend more. Most seatposts are a lot wider than 15.75 mm. Machining the sidewalls down would weaken them tremendously in my opinion. If you use a carbon seatpost, make sure to fit it using a thin layer of carbon paste as this stops it slipping. Pay attention to the quoted torque at which you should tighten the bolt - overdoing it can cause it to snap. If you don't own a torque wrench already, here you can find our recommendations for the best torque wrenches for bikes. There are different lengths on offer, too. Seatposts will have a marker which shows the minimum amount of post that can be inside the seat tube. If you ride a small frame with a lot of seatpost showing, you'll need to make sure you buy a post that allows for this.
Suspension Seatposts Wrap Up
The results were as I might have expected. All the posts performed really well. All of them helped reduce chatter. The carbon posts had a little more ‘give’ in them. But ultimately it would be tough to say that any of them outperformed the other by any serious margin. Value Aero road bikes come with aero seatposts. These are flatter and designed to channel air more seamlessly, limiting the resistance that slows you down. As for the 0.2 mm difference, it is probably counter intuitive for many people, but in practice it can cause one, or several of the following: Having said that: going a bit too narrow can be fixed with some DIY shims from Coca-Cola cans (that’s one thing that drink is good for 🙂 ),
On my scales it weighs 202 grams. Light but not exceptionally so. At this price point seatpost you might expect it to be lightest in class. But Enve has built its reputation on more than just making objects for those preoccupied with reducing the weight of their bikes. Take this seatpost’s clamp design, for example. All that said, I personally prefer the two elastomer-based suspension posts I’ve tried. Similar to a well-tuned suspension fork, the elastomer posts seem to settle into their travel instead of being squishy and active all the time. As such, they provide more support off the top, and only become active when pushed (or when bumped). I spent a lot of time on the eeSilk, which is the most minimal, of course, and provides the least amount of cushion. But I also liked the new 4th gen Thudbuster and will be curious to see how the elastomer holds up over time. The Cirrus KINEKT 2.1 is an aluminum suspension seatpost that’s designed to isolate your body from surface vibrations and impacts to improve comfort and control. Each post comes with two extra springs so you can mix and match, creating a custom experience. The KINEKT post springs are available in five color-coded tensions for riders ranging from 50-320 pounds. I’ve only gotten four or five rides in with the new Thudbuster, but I’m quite impressed. The redesigned seat clamp is fantastic, and I found the new elastomer system to work very well. Unlike some of the softer, coil-sprung posts, the new Thudbuster offers a nice mix of chatter dampening and medium-hit suspension to take the edge off of sharper bumps. And, it doesn’t feel as if it has as much of an effect on pedaling efficiency as other, longer travel posts do. Don’t punch it in. If it can’t be eased in by hand, it’s probably too wide. Forcing it in makes it very, very difficult to move or take out later. It might even damage some frames.It works a treat. You get two upper clamps so you can run 7x9mm carbon rails or 7mm round alloy rails. The lower clamp can be reversed depending on your desired saddle angle in relation to your frame’s geometry. Once the saddle rails have been inserted in between these two clamps it's just a case of tightening the titanium bolts with a 4mm allen key. Micro adjustments are possible once the saddle is pretty much in place: tightening the front bolt will lower the saddle, while tightening the rear will raise it. The Thudbuster ST weighs in at 580g (31.6 version) and is built out of forged aluminum with threaded, hard anodized aluminum axles. Note that the new axles are serviceable, unlike those found in the previous version. This handy PDF from Cane Creek outlines the differences between the two versions of the Thudbuster ST.
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