Belfast Butler Sink Wooden Draining Board Made from Solid Oak Wood - Rised and Angled

Product Information

In this top view the Kohler product is already missing the lower LH radius and there are about 10 different places where the strips are starting to delaminate.

This drainer unit is angled, and comes with a surface design that channels all the water towards the drainage spout. Had an under mount sink with grooves in the granite top in my last house and didn’t really get on with it. Thanks for that woodyoulike - there is only 1 small patch around each tap - like you say - not surprising really! If you decide to go with raw linseed, get GOOD quality stuff, not the cheapest, and warm it up to 60 deg C, brush it on and keep it warm with a heat gun (don't overheat) it will penetrate more.

The people who we bought the house of did not leave me any instructions on how to maintain it but did leave some danish oil under the sink. The grooves didn’t drain all the water and water would collect around the seal with the upstand and inbetween the grooves. If you do as woodulike suggests and get rid of the old layers, but gently and don't use chemical strippers, then avoid using the taps or sink for as long as possible before reoiling, the wood can dry a bit. And in spite of this water still goes everywhere and has started to go into and warp the door on the base unit under the sink.

How often would you suggest retreating - I am quite careful and make sure that all water is wiped off as much as possible. If you have a double-bowl sink, the steel dishrack can be placed in one of the empty basins to provide support for draining plates, whilst washing up in the other. This white rack uses soft-tipped pegs to support your dishes in any direction, and has a cutlery holder that can be removed for easy cleaning. The drainage grooves become deeper towards the edge of the work surface, allowing water to flow directly into the sink.During the first year it did have a small tendency to cupping, but that was easily solved by letting it lie on a damp towel for a night with the concave side down. Expansion across the way has been surprisingly non existent (mitred corners are still nice and tight).

Worst case, if it cupps (hopefully on the bottom, I will plane it down, and give it to someone in the family and start again. Oak likes turning black given the slightest chance, and the presence of metal (like taps) and damp and it's off. Am I Ok to to leave it at that or should I put matt varnish over the top (would prefer not too as it looks icky.Marine plywood would work in this instance, but that stuff is very expensive and not particularly attractive. I suggest you do laminate the boards and try to orient the grain to minimize expansion/contraction issues. So this is where we're left at, the final form minus the rebate on the underside that will allow it to nestle within the colander. Also I am thinking abhout routing out a 1x1" groove at the back/bottom edge of the board, then epoxy in a piece of 1x1" walnut, but on edge (90 degrees to the grain on the board) hoping that this helps with cupping, sort of like CAULS. The wood cutting boards we have are endgrain but when I clean them off after each use I clean both sides so the water exposure is equal.