Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer, V4 Version Lattice Glass Heat Bed Aluminum Extrusion Frame & Filament Runout Sensor & Power Failure Recovery 3D Printering, 300x300x400cm

Product Information

Better image quality: https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-GEN_L/blob/master/hardware/MKS%20Gen_L%20V1.0_008/MKS%20Gen_L%20V1.0_008%20PIN.pdf Lead screws are kept in sync by the belt in the top, which is nice to see. On my Creality CR 10S PRO, the main issue i had was with bed leveling. Because of the weight of the X assembly, the lead screws would get out of sync causing fist layer issues. The power supply is passive, but considering that it only powers the printer hardware and hotend, it’s more than enough. The heatbed runs on mains power (in my case 220V) and it’s powered by the integrated Solid State Relay. The Titan extruder is a clone, and the heating is not the best. It did not cause issues, but it can be improved with small tweaks.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 / X2 / Genius TFT FW - Thingiverse Artillery Sidewinder X1 / X2 / Genius TFT FW - Thingiverse

Thanks to the low-noise system and the ultra-quiet stepper driver, there are hardly any unpleasant noises when printing. Coming to the printbead, the prints adhere well at high temperatures and after printing they almost snap off by themselves. However, if the current were to be disrupted, the plate would cool down and, your model would no longer adhere properly (happened to me in a test).

Customer Reviews

The loudest components on the X1 are actually only the X and extruder stepper; they move very fast! The board/cables were not stained with hot glue The stepper drivers of the SWX1 are plugged in. When it comes to print quality, the SWX1 simply delivers. Out of the box, it prints good models. You can tweak the settings to have even better results. The current firmware is currently outdated. Please use Digant’s firmware. He maintains it better than me and he also added a lot more functionality to the touchscreen. Why should you upgrade to Marlin 2.0.5.3? As the successor to the world-renowned Sidewinder X1, the Sidewinder X2 from Artillery is characterised by new features and smart developments. I’d rate the Artillery Sidewinder X1 as a “very good” 3D printer. However, it also has its weaknesses.

Install Klipper On Sidewinder X1 | 3D Print Beginner Install Klipper On Sidewinder X1 | 3D Print Beginner

Nevertheless, you can get through the assembly instructions (including connecting cables, etc.) in around 20 minutes in case you are up for it. Ribbon cables are simply plugged in (which is not quite optimal – more on that later) The Sidewinder X2 inherits the classic design of the Sidewinder X1: simple, superbly processed and characterised by an extraordinary texture. The Z axis assembly consists of 40×20 aluminium extrusions. It has dual motors with dual lead screws lifting the X axis.The Sidewinder X2 resumes the printing process without any problems after a power failure and triggers an alarm if the filament runs out. However, the adhesive tape that is supposed to fix the cable will come off. In the meantime, good old tape, which was wrapped around the axle, helps out here. The Sidewinder only begins to swing a little at great heights. When this happens, you should reduce the printing speed or stiffen the frame afterwards. Conclusion: Is the Artillery Sidewinder X1Worth It? Wondering whether you should get the Artillery Sidewinder 3D printer? In this Artillery Sidewinder X1 review, we go through what you should expect in terms of features, price, performance and quality of prints delivered by the machine.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 Cura 4.8 PLA and TPU Profiles by Artillery Sidewinder X1 Cura 4.8 PLA and TPU Profiles by

Unlike most 3D printers made in China, the Artillery Sidewinder X1 relies on inductive end stops. Only TEVO regularly uses inductive end stops. Inductive end stops – instead of mechanical limit switches, as is so often the case. (Plug connection not so elegantly solved)To end this Artillery Sidewinder X1 review, if you print a lot, print with flexible filament sometimes, and don’t want to tinker later, the printer will be great for you. The high-quality broadband power supply is underpinned by sophisticated technologies and a stable power supply. Heating to 60c takes ~50 seconds and reaching 100c takes less than 2:30 minutes. Excellent results considering the size. Make sure that the wheels from the heatbed are tightened and there is no play when trying to wiggle the bed. I needed to tighten the wheels. Octoprint installed on a Raspberry Pi (Preferably a Pi 3B or higher but any Linux PC will also work)